Robert, Charles, … et al

Review: This Thing of Darkness by Harry Thompson

I don’t go in much for celebrities or hero worship though I’ll admit a few scientists and mathematicians have earned my grudging regard. However, Captain Robert Fitzroy of HMS Beagle has now joined my personal Pantheon.

This delightful book claims to be an honest, fictionalised telling of his life and its intersection with the life of Charles Darwin and a whole host of mesmerising people including the first (Tierra del) Fuegians to arrive in Britain and Argentina’s first dictator. Apart from skippering the Beagle, Fitzroy was Governor of New Zealand and the creator of the British Meteorological Service. I’m cynical enough to feel that the author loved his subject too much to display all the warts but trusting enough to feel the truth is nevertheless there in his work. Darwin is painted more critically and comes across as very smart but also very vain and somewhat cowardly.

Promoted to his own ‘boat’ at 23, Fitzroy eventually makes it to rear-admiral, but his career and life are a series of failures (at least in his eyes). A dutiful man, he is burdened with a humanism that brings him into regular opposition with the world. When his superiors don’t ‘do the right thing’, he does, at his own expense, and so eventually bankrupts himself. He chose Darwin as a companion and though bright enough to share Darwin’s insights, he could not reconcile them with his religious beliefs. He sea-trialed the Beaufort scale for his friend Admiral Beaufort. A scientist in his own right, he produced charts of Patagonia, Chile, Tierra del Fuego and the Falklands and studied weather patterns, believing that weather could be forecasted.

This is a stunning adventure novel, which happens to be true. It will take pride of place beside Childer’s Riddle of the Sands on my bookshelf.

 

Golden Globe

In 1967, (Sir) Francis Chichester Clark sailed single-handedly around the world in Gypsy Moth IV taking 226 days excluding stopovers.  In 1968, the Sunday Times sponsored the first single-handed-non-stop-round-the-world yacht race. This turned out to be quite a catastrophic affair.  Of 9 starters, 4 abandoned before leaving the Atlantic, one sank, one skipper committed suicide, another renounced commercialism and sailed on without crossing the finish line to complete a tour and a half of the planet in Joshua and only (Sir) Robin Knox-Johnson completed the tour in Suhaili taking 310 days.

2018 sees a repeat of the race to mark its 50th anniversary.  In my view, this is a great event which beats the Vendée Globe hands down for adventure and sport.  The latter has become a glorified computer game with control rooms pulling all the strings (intentional pun) in a technological race.  What I really like about the Golden Globe is that it’s an adventure first and a race last. Just finishing (some 300 days hence) will be a triumph.

The Golden Globe will be run with a ban on all technology not available in 1968.  Competitors will have no phones, GPS or other electronic aids (except a sealed security pack which will disqualify them if opened). Even their cameras, video recorders, radios are vintage.  They carry charts and sextants.  What a lark!  Sailing as it used to be.  In short, fun!!! Competitors range in age from 29 (Susie Goodall, the only female entrant) to 73 (frenchman Jean-Luc van d’en Heede). Ireland is represented by Gregor McGuckin.

Yesterday I admired each of the boats on the pontoon at Les Sables d’Olonne. Here they are:

Elle May representing the USA/Lebanon didn’t appear at the pontoon (hence no photo) but she did join the race on time.

Today, we headed out to the start line to see them off and followed them for about two hours.  It’s not exciting to watch but it is certainly to be admired.

 

Meeting of the Waters

Review: Below the Convergence: Voyages Toward Antartica 1699-1839 by Alan Gurney

Rating: 8/10

The convergence is where the warm Atlantic & Pacific oceans meet the cold Antarctic waters.  Both sea and air cool noticeably as this line is crossed.

The subtitle doesn’t do the book justice. It’s more than a set of voyages.  It’s about the strangest place on the planet, the sea below the Convergence as it was during the 18th century: huge, hostile, fecund, and teeming with life, surrounding an empty, cold, and sterile continent, the ultimate barrier at the uttermost part of the world uncrossed by man since homo sapiens began its extraordinary exodus from Africa 60,000 years before.

JamesCook
Resolution & Adventure         taking on ice at 60°S

It’s about explorers like Cook (who crossed the Antarctic Circle for the first time in recorded history on 17th January 1773 with two ships and over 200 men), but it’s also about a host of sealers and whalers trying to make a living (and incidentally carrying out a slaughter akin to the virtual extermination of the buffalo in North America around the same time). It’s striking how many of them died young (in their 40’s or 50’s) and penniless and often violently, their only legacy being a rocky peak emerging from a frigid sea.

It’s also about the creatures who found a niche in this unwelcoming place including seals, penguins and the graceful albatross.

Gurney writes elegantly in a rather charming style which sometimes might be called pompous.  I reached for my dictionary a number of times.  The style worked for me.  At the end I looked forward to lending it to several of the Asynchronists until I realised I left my just-finished copy on my flight from Brindisi.  Sorry guys!!